Saturday, August 30, 2008

Eurosummer 2008 - Rennes Le Chateau, Church of Mary Magdala


A visit to a breathtaking village sitting atop a hillside overlooking a beautiful valley, Le Rennes, and one of the most controversial little churches in history. This is the church dedicated to St. Mary Magdala, built and lovingly maintained by the villagers and is host to flocks of visitors who have come to see the place where mysteries lie. I found a great write up of this place online:

Rennes-le-Château is a small village perched on a hilltop near Couiza in the Aude. It has become world famous in the last few years following the publication of a series of books. These books are about a mystery concerning the village, and a nineteenth century priest, Abbé Beranger Saunière, who lived there.Fifteen hundred years ago it was a thriving city of 20,000, perhaps 30,000 inhabitants. It was then a huge walled city, a Visigothic capital, the administrative centre of a vast area now called the Razès.Towards the end of the nineteenth century the priest of this little community, whose official stipend amounted to the equivalent of some £5 per year, suddenly became very rich. He refurbished his church at great cost, if in questionable taste. He built a splendid new house, and the present road up to the village, and a tower to provide drinking water to everyone in the village, and a folly to house his personally library. Where did the money come from? His bishop tried to find out, but without success.Over the years many other, less prosaic, theories have been put forward. The whole thing took off in the 1970s, long after the priests' death. Books were written in French and then in English about the mystery. Television programmes were made. One book, The Holy Blood and the Holy Grail sold millions. Visitors started coming to see for themselves.

Theories became ever more fanciful. The priest had been selling Black Masses. He had discovered historical documents so damaging to the Church that he had been paid off by the Vatican. He had discovered buried treasure while rooting around under the ancient high altar. The question of where treasure might have come from opened new vistas for active imaginations. It was King Solomon's treasure taken from the Temple in Jerusalem by the Romans, later stolen from Rome by the Visigoths and brought to this remote capital for safekeeping. According to some, this treasure included the Ark of the Covenant. Alternatively, the treasure was a secret cache smuggled out of the Cathars' final stronghold in the thirteenth century shortly before its owners were burned alive. This stronghold at Montsegùr is reputed to a have been the original Grail Castle, so obviously the treasure would have included the Holy Grail. Yet another possibility was that it was the treasure of the Knights Templar, hidden there in the early fourteenth century when the King of France tried to seize the Templars' fabulous wealth for himself.
A few years ago treasure hunters were turning up with picks and spades, setting about public roads and undermining private buildings. Locals would wake up in the morning to find holes in their gardens, sometimes disturbingly large ones.

To the left is the mansion built by the Abbe, and down the walkway to the entrance to the church itself.










The view is breathtaking.

Interior of the church and altar. The stories say that the Abbe found the Templar treasure underneath the original altar stone.





Everywhere you look, there are gift shops and restaurants, all hidden beyond these little archways and entrance gates.
Jan in a bookshop - the only place she's happy to be left alone for hours..... after reading two books set in this area of France, including Limoux, Carcassonne and here in Rennes Le Chateau, she couldn't wait to visit and see. The books, written by Kate Mosse, "Labyrinth" and "The Sepulchre" are bestsellers in this region - Janet actually came back here to see the author, who was doing a book signing here...
The views from the village and church were awesome


Up the centuries old steps into the village from the church and buildings






Streets in Rennes Le Chateau only wide enough for one car, lots of tourist traffic, as this place was also featured in DaVinci Code as well. Lots of mystery surrounding this place, like Templar treasures....





Around the front of the church and buildings, a small pathway, which we followed back into the village - incredibly ancient foundations.

No picnic here today!
Entering the mansion - the Abbe Sauniere was eventually excommunicated from the Church, but refused to stop conducting mass - he included a small chapel built at the back of the mansion, and villagers still came to attend his services.

Inside the luxurious mansion that the Abbe had built. He actually never lived here, but entertained very powerful and famous artists, politicians and landowners here.
A locked room chock full of treasures, paintings and artifacts that were a part of the decorations in the mansion.
Original vestements worn by the Abbe, and other articles preserved in the gallery room. How cool is this?

Eurosummer 2008 - Carcassonne- Canals and Castles!


What a place!  La Cite, Carcassonne - hundreds of years of history - a castle like something out of a fairytale, reduced to ruins until the turn of the century, when it was rebuilt, and rejuvenated, and now is a world-wide destination.  We took the train from Limoux to spend the day (and it was HOT - 37 degrees or more that day).  Our first stop - a canal boat ride - so fun, relaxing, and a great way to start the day.  And then a walk through the city itself, gorgeous coloured pennants across the streets, a picnic lunch and a rest....nd then on to the castle, walking through the little village up the hill, and into the gates.  Rowan's #1 - to see the knights jousting - and boy did they ever!  Everything you'd want to see at a castle, knights in beautiful coloured pennants, magnificent horses, jousting and sword fights - Ro was in seventh heaven!  After that, some shopping, and back to our little home in Limoux!
Train station at Carcassonne - a half hour trip from Limoux
At the bottom of the water drain pipes - these curious creatures - I'm sure there's a story there!

You can see the different work that was done restoring the castle throughout the ages - different colour stone, and different work, but all magnificent.



Walking through the city - lots of shopping, another centre place, on the way to La Cite.
All of the knights had their own names, colours - most of these actors were also trick riders, and we were treated to amazing stunts on horseback - very fun!

Walking through the city streets - pedestrians only on this block, thank goodness!
A house of horrors in La Cite - Sarah' 'dying' to go!
Right outside the castle gates, lots of 'touristy' type attractions, including horse and wagon rides.
Jan's chivalrous gateau de bouef - he sure knew how to get the crowds goin'


Rowan in seventh heaven...
The streets inside La Cite have all the original cobblestoning, and walls - it really felt like you had a sense of horses and carriages running up and down the streets, very fun!
Inside La Cite, between the battlements and the village - this was quite a fortress - built to keep out the invaders.
Thank goodness we were under cover for the jousting - so hot that day!


Sarah and Meg's gateau de boeuf.... nice tights..
Walking from Carcassonne to the castle - could see it up on the hill as we walked through beautifully kept gardens, along the river and over the bridges.  What a gorgeous place.
Streets leading to the castle
Looking at the exterior of the castle from the road leading to the gates.  Again, blue skies, and sunshine.
Entrance gate to the castle
Streets of Carcassonne - notice the pennants above the streets - the colours of the city.  And great shopping!
Bob and Rowan up front of the canal boat - Rowan helped our guide tie off the boat as we entered and exited each lock on the canal.
Coming to one of the locks of the canal
Funnest part - rising with the water of the lock, and away we go!
A great way to start the day!
Our usual picnic of baguette, cheese and french beer - then a quick snooze and off we go to La Cite!



Gorgeous scenery along the canal - beautifully kept up - lots of cyclists and runners along the side of the canal - 

Streets of Carcassonne - the girls are ready to shop!

And another breathtaking church - in Carcassonne.
Picking up picnic stuff for lunch - the market was huge, and full of fresh vegetables, fruits, cheeses, olives......

In the Place, Carcassonne - the centre statue